OK, you have your drawings. Now it's time to convert them into a three-dimensional model. I use wood for my models, because it is cheap, easy to work, and holds detail well. Any material that is accessible, reasonably easy to carve, and durable would probably be OK though. Anyway, let's assume wood. Hardwoods can make really pretty models, but are tough to work with, so I like basswood, white pine, or cedar. Basswood is excellent, but a tad pricey. I've used Western red cedar because I had some left over from a project, but it is a bit soft, and prone to splinter. Clear white pine would be my wood of choice. You will need a block slightly larger than the length, width, and height of your (half) drawings. Let's say our boat will be sixteen feet long, thirty-two inches wide, and fifteen inches deep (top of bow/stern to bottom). This would be a boat without much sheer. Let us also assume that the hull is asymmetric, with maximum beam twelve inches aft of the centerline. Because of this asymmetry, we have to make a full-length (four foot) model. If the boat were symmetric, we could get by with a half-length model, since all the forward stations would be the same as the aft ones. We will need a wood block measuring four feet by four inches wide by three and three-quarters deep. I would add a half to an inch to these measurements. Since it is hard to come by pine of these dimensions, I would laminate the block using six pieces of three-quarter stock. Very small knots should not be a problem, but it's not hard to build up a block from small pieces that are knot-free. I use Titebond wood glue, and clamp things up pretty tight to get a thin glue line. It would be OK to make the laminations either vertical or horizontal, whichever suits the wood you have.
The completed block should be jointed on two sides at a perfect right angle. These sides will be the fore-aft centerline plane, and the top or bottom. If the block's top and bottom are significantly un-parallel, it would be useful to run it through a thickness planer to get them parallel, but variations of an eighth or so shouldn't cause trouble. If you laminated the block from wood that is already surfaced on two sides, you should be close enough to parallel without planing. Now mark the position of the centerline on the block's center plane. A drafting triangle (or better yet, an engineer's square) works well for this. I generally use a .5 millimeter mechanical pencil. Continue the line across the top and bottom of the block. Now glue your profile drawing to the block center plane, aligning the drawing and block centerlines. Rubber cement is fine, or any other glue that won't cause your paper to wrinkle. Do the same on the top of the block, using half of the max beam plan view drawing.
What about the max beam cross section? Remember, since our hull is asymmetric, this does not fall at the fore/aft centerline, but behind it. Here's my approach. Using a piece of contrasting wood (walnut, cherry, mahogany, etc.) an eighth of an inch thick, glue onto it half the max beam cross section drawing. Cut the wood to the exact shape of the drawing. If you don't have any contrasting wood, it doesn't really matter; you can color the edge of whatever you use with a Sharpie marker. You just need a good color contrast with the block. Now, using a table saw with a .125 kerf blade, cut your block into two pieces, exactly on the max beam line. Glue your max beam shape between the two halves of the block, restoring it to its original length, but with a dark line at the max beam station position.
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The completed block should be jointed on two sides at a perfect right angle. These sides will be the fore-aft centerline plane, and the top or bottom. If the block's top and bottom are significantly un-parallel, it would be useful to run it through a thickness planer to get them parallel, but variations of an eighth or so shouldn't cause trouble. If you laminated the block from wood that is already surfaced on two sides, you should be close enough to parallel without planing. Now mark the position of the centerline on the block's center plane. A drafting triangle (or better yet, an engineer's square) works well for this. I generally use a .5 millimeter mechanical pencil. Continue the line across the top and bottom of the block. Now glue your profile drawing to the block center plane, aligning the drawing and block centerlines. Rubber cement is fine, or any other glue that won't cause your paper to wrinkle. Do the same on the top of the block, using half of the max beam plan view drawing.
What about the max beam cross section? Remember, since our hull is asymmetric, this does not fall at the fore/aft centerline, but behind it. Here's my approach. Using a piece of contrasting wood (walnut, cherry, mahogany, etc.) an eighth of an inch thick, glue onto it half the max beam cross section drawing. Cut the wood to the exact shape of the drawing. If you don't have any contrasting wood, it doesn't really matter; you can color the edge of whatever you use with a Sharpie marker. You just need a good color contrast with the block. Now, using a table saw with a .125 kerf blade, cut your block into two pieces, exactly on the max beam line. Glue your max beam shape between the two halves of the block, restoring it to its original length, but with a dark line at the max beam station position.