This is an approach to physical modeling that I hadn't considered, but I bet it would work pretty well, and would eliminate the need to slice up the completed model, since it would be essentially pre-sliced. We might call it the 'wedding cake approach', since the model is made from layers. If I were making a half-model, I would make each section a couple of inches wider than the actual half-section. Let's say that the max beam station would fit within a 4x4 rectangle (representing a 1/4 scale 32 inch beam, 16 inch deep section), and that the stations on the building form are a foot apart. I would cut a block measuring 6 by 4 by 3 inches, with the grain running in the 3 inch direction (i.e., it'll be fore and aft on the model). Each subsequent block can decrease in width as the model tapers toward the bow and stern, but retain the extra two inches of width. I would then drill a pair of half-inch holes in each block in what we will call the waste portion (that extra two inches). A simple drilling jig will guarantee that all the holes will line up. We then slide a piece of 3/8 all-thread through each hole, with washers and nuts on each end. Tighten very firmly, and we have a block we can then shape to our preference using spokeshaves, rasps, drawknives, sanders, or whatever technique we want. When the model is finished, we simply unbolt all the blocks, giving us the shapes of all the stations which can readily be transferred to graph paper for upscaling.<p>

If we already know the shape of the hull at each station, but we want a model  just to see if it 'looks right', we would lay out the shapes from offsets on graph paper and then glue it to the blocks. We could then cut to the lines with a band saw or jigsaw, assemble into our master block, and finish as before, but with a lot less waste to cut away. Check the link for a sketch of what this technique would look like.<p>

And, happy birthday, cat!

<img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i351/glasslightdesign/boatcake2.jpg >